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September 07, 2020 5 min read

Vogue UK Editor: "Racism is a part of my life" Edward Aninpool is trying to change Conde Nest from the inside out. After allegations of discriminatory treatment of the magazine empire to minorities, he promotes a black team in front of the camera and behind it, and engraves on its banner activism and education. Will he be able to save Conde Nest from the crisis? "The infrastructure behind the scenes needs to change" Lauren Indwick, Vaguard AninapoleaboutUnited KingdomConda Nest Vogue UK In a few hours he will unveil the cover of the September issue - the most important issue of the year. He wears the glasses with the black frame identified with him, and wears a blue barberry wool suit, ready for a day of TV appearances. On July 15, then he entered the main entrance of the British headquarters of the publishing house Conde Nest, and one of the security guards told him to use the unloading area in the back. He says today. (The security guard employed by an outside contractor no longer works in the building.) Read more in Calcalist: The Cottagecore Trend: Back to simplicity, harmony with nature and good spirits Rushed and put on pajamas: The forced stay at home leads to a change in the Levi's brand wardrobe Sub-strategy: will focus on direct sales to the consumer "when he When I was younger, I was really stressed, "he says. "But at my age, I feel I have to post it so people don't have to go through it and think it's okay." Aninpool learned early on that "if you are black you have to work 10 times harder. I learned the art myself and was educated." And he adds, "Racism is a part of my life whether I like it or not." Conde Nest's activity in the U.S. has come under fire recently for its treatment of minorities, exposures that led to the resignation of two senior executives. In June, Vogue editor Anna Wintour even admitted that the magazine "did not find enough ways to promote and make room for black editors." On the other hand, it demonstrates what a modern "Vogue" can look like: multicultural in its outline and composition, with a focus on fashion and luxury but also looking at a wider world. The issues it edited honored social "changemakers" and expanded its narrow definition. Hitherto the magazine's best-selling and inspiring beauty magazine, the first editor to feature Hijab and Durag-style models on the cover, and even raised the age limit when he made 85-year-old Judy Denz the oldest cover star in June. The British issue of Vogue September The current issue of September, spread over 352 pages, moves along the same lines. September is the most important issue of the year for fashion magazines, and also includes the largest number of ads. In last year's September issue Megan Merkel served as guest editor. , And the issue was dedicated to "burglar Through ", and won a copious dose of public relations. This year for the first time all 26 editions of Vogue around the world have agreed on a common theme for the coveted issue: Hope. "I knew that with everything that happened, our interpretation had to relate to activism and education," Annapol explains. He chose Nigerian-born photographer Missam Harriman, who was the first black photographer to cover Vogue's cover in the magazine's 104 years of existence, to photograph model and activist Adua Aboua alongside Manchester United footballer Marcus Rashford, who works for underprivileged students. in the UK. Aninpool has made a name for itself thanks to the updated gates, which manage to provoke waves on social media. He has also managed to change the people behind these gates. Most of the staff members in the cover photos were black, and the clothes are by black designers, Asians and other minorities. It was important to him, "that the message be conveyed not only in front of the camera but also behind it," something that fashion brands must do more extensively as well. "It's not enough to upload a photo on Instagram, or show a photo in a magazine. The infrastructure behind the scenes needs to change," he said. Edward Aninopol Edward Aninopol Photo: gettyimagesIL This is a recurring claim. Last year, the Gucci fashion brand fell into a racist scandal after selling a sweater that allegedly encouraged blackening of the face (Black Face). An error that critics would have avoided had there been more senior black workers in the company. Similarly, African-American Virgil Abelou, Louis Vuitton's menswear designer, was accused of having almost all the employees on his private label "Off White" as white men. Criticism that led him to announce last month a $ 1 million scholarship distribution and training programs for black students. "The epidemic has sparked unpleasant talks about unemployment and racism. I am pleased that these talks are taking place now," Aninpool said. Fighting against the odds he opposes the question of how the slowdown in advertising has affected the magazine, arguing that the current September issue includes the same number of pages as last year. Despite this the feeling is that he is fighting against the odds, bound by a format and a slow business model, which require hard work and depend on the whims of luxury brand advertisers, who are also recently experiencing a drop in demand for their products. He has been able to effectively use digital platforms to bolster his magazine, but his critics claim he has not done enough to reinvent it as a digital product. The blame, of course, does not lie solely with Aninopol. Conde Nest has remained largely focused on printing, clinging to its glorious past and not investing enough in reinventing its products. In May, the company announced its intention to lay off about 100 employees. Aninpool has defined the theme of the August issue: "Reboot," and I wonder if he believes the fashion industry will undergo a reboot. "I think we've made way too many, far too many clothes, far too many displays," he replied. "We can't go back to that pace. People will not survive." Many inside and outside the company perceived Anninpool's appointment as editor of Vogue UK as a sort of audition ahead of his entry into the role of editor of Vogue America - the larger and more influential edition. Wintour, 70, has held the position for 33 years, and in 2019 expanded its powers to now include overseeing most of Conde Nest's magazines. When asked if it was his ambition to edit the American edition, Aninpool was content with just answering that he was "happy where I am." Lose the glam: September issues are shrinking The glamorous September issues have marked the end of summer and the transition to cooler weather, bringing the news of fashion to the next season. Depending on their thick copies contained a huge number of advertisements and justified the huge economic investment. In 2009 due to the documentary, "September issue", after the process of creating the September 2007 issue of Vogue magazine which was then in its heyday and spread over 840 pages, 727 of them ads. Since then, the September issues of the glittering fashion magazines have shrunk significantly, and at the same time the total number of issues published in a year has decreased, with many readers and advertisers switching to digital editions. Despite the rise of the Internet, publishing is still relying on print as a source of profit (in Conde Nest, for example, 36% of profit in 2019 was from print and 24% from online ads). 2020 and the crisis plaguing the world have further reduced the number of issues. Advertisers had to adjust their budget to these days of declining consumption and sales, and editors were required to decide which pages fit the spirit of the times. No more investing hundreds of thousands of dollars in glitzy fashion productions and thick sheets. Gone are the days when a team of editors and models and photographers was sent to an exotic destination for expensive photos. The wind of time also blows over the glam. According to Business of Fashion, advertising spending will not recover until 2025, and even then it will be 5% lower than in 2019.

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