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August 28, 2020 5 min read

The fashion shows of Milan and Paris in the shadow of the Corona Prada uploaded videos in a dystopian atmosphere, Gucci filmed an endless marathon behind the scenes and Jacquemos held a show in the middle of a wheat field. 

Milan and Paris fashion shows have tried to deal with the crisis, but still have a hard time accepting the fact that people do not have the desire and money for luxury luxury clothing Fashion showsGucciPradraHatrojacombo Fashion Milan's Digital Fashion Week lasted three days last week. Some of the brands presented next summer's collections, combining the men's and women's displays, while others presented the Cruz collection. There are fashion houses that have stood out in their absence, including Marnie, Fendi and Giorgio Armani; And others like Bottega Veneta, behaved as usual and skipped the men's traditional summer showcase and preferred to present them in September. Read more at Calcalist: Brooks Brothers, End: This is what the crisis in the fashion industry looks like This is how the fashion houses held the 2021 winter shows in Corona because of the second wave: Fashion store revenues in malls fell more than 7% in June anyway, there is something a little jarring about all these shows: The expensive productions and the expensive clothes, which are unlikely to be used in the near future. Seemingly little had changed. Despite all the statements and thoughts provoked by the Corona plague about the requested change and the claim that the fashion field will not return to the routine that was practiced before the crisis, this change is still not noticeable enough in the luxury industry, which already plans the resort collection shows (housing, for example). In addition to this the fact that most of the collections were presented digitally (there were also physical displays in a standard format) proved that there is no substitute for displays, for the human connection, for the wave. In digital the majority actually looks like a filmed commercial. Right: Gucci Prada and Atro fashion shows Right: Gucci Prada and Atro's fashion shows At Prada's Never Taken Show 'for the Spring Summer 2021 Collection, Miuccia Prada's last show alone before Raff Simmons took office alongside her, were shown Videos by various international creators (YouTube: Prada Spring Summer 2021). The video looked like a dystopia of fashionable minimalism and brought to mind Aldous Huxley's 'Wonderful New World'. "Today culture is enslaved to industry," as the director of the hatchery says at the beginning of his book. In the first episode of photographer Willy Vanderper, figures are seen wearing white shirts and pants and narrow jackets topped with tailored black coats and black dresses, marching against a sterile white background, with an opaque and empty look, even if they are not all identical. In the second episode, fashion photographer Jurgen Teller photographed models in a kind of factory with metal pipes and pressure gauges and gas balloons that evoke a chilling feeling of a production line, or inspired by Huxley: "A Buknovsky egg will produce buds, multiply, split ... This is how 96 human beings grow where human creation grows. One. You have progress. " Even if a little color penetrates the photographs of the artist Martin Sims in the fourth episode: with green and powder, everything is still mechanical, devoid of emotion. The video ends with a kind of display in which the models walk on an imaginary track against a background of gray concrete walls that close in on them from all sides. And the clothes are reminiscent of Prada's early years, a bit like school uniforms, dresses reminiscent of iconic plastic bags. Simple and classic items, timeless and beautiful and made, it seems, above and beyond. Gucci's artistic director, Alessandro Michela, presented his vision on Friday for 12 hours live (YouTube: Gucci Epilogue). "Epilogue" is a kind of behind-the-scenes marathon, a glimpse into how things go from minute to minute, hour after hour, in preparation for a seemingly non-existent show, with the entire production team and photographers and workers wearing masks. The company employees served as male and female models and actually presented the process of creation and the identity of the clothes in a detailed block book of details of men, women, resort, ready-to-wear collection and even couture. All together, down to the last detail, including the color of the nail polish. "The corona taught us a lesson in humility," Michele told Business of Fashion. "We were all under a spell, and the plague woke us up just like the Sleeping Beauty. But no more beauties like Linda Evangelista and fairy tales, people want real stories like the great moment of neo-realism in post-World War II cinema." The collection itself was the same eclectic language inspired by a vintage look, with colorful and youthful aesthetics, and gender-free fashion, plus huge fashion jewelry. From Jacques' fashion show. The models walked in a field of crops from Jacquemus' fashion show. The models walked in a field of crops Photo: Getty Images and some chose the open air, in the familiar display format, for example Dolce & Gabbana and Atro. At the Etro Spring Summer 2021 show (YouTube: Etro Spring Summer 2021) viewers sitting in slightly distant chairs, some wearing masks, watched myrtle models around the magical garden of the Four Seasons Hotel in Milan without masks. Have we really learned nothing? So yes, it was a show for women and men that included the Italian brand's summer and resort collection, and yet, it seems that in the spirit of the times there is something detached in the prestigious fashion world and the "show must go" approach, not to mention set an example in days of social distance. The clothes were paisley prints in the colors associated with the brand, with the familiar cuts, also in this aspect there is not much new under the sun. And it is impossible not to refer to the "L'Amor" ("Love") show that exists at this time, the promising French designer Simon Fort Jacquemus for the Jacquemus brand. In a field of crops, an hour from Paris. A track was plowed across the crops, and the invited audience sat in chairs scattered along it, each in a sort of niche created for it (YouTube: Jacquemus Spring / Summer 2021). Last year Jacques introduced his collection in a flowering lavender field in the south of France, this time the colors were different but equally impressive. He may have originally thought of a celebration of love, of people coming together, "but," he writes on his Instagram account, "this is what is beautiful about love and how much it can bear - sometimes even strengthen - in the absence of human closeness. When my team and I were separated because of the plague a vision arose "Already last year we slowed down to two joint shows for women and men in January and June, a decision that saved us this season. The small collection presented to family and friends mostly brings the home world out, giving interpretation in clothes to modest fabrics and objects we live with."

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