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August 28, 2020 4 min read

Ford vs. Banal: Designer Tom Ford presents fresh thinking While the American fashion industry is on the brink of crisis, designer Tom Ford increases its sales by $ 200 million each year. He presents spectacular collections and fresh thinking, surrounds himself with celebs and never ceases to wink at the international market Tom Ford Fashion Fashion Designer New York Fashion Week may have ended last weekend with an impressive Marc Jacobs show, but that did not reflect the move The Wind This Week: His glory days are over. This will be evidenced, among other things, by the closure of two of Manhattan's largest and most prestigious stores, "Bernice" and "Opening Ceremony," which supported rising and promising designers; The closure of fashion houses, for example, Zack Posen; The failed attempts to build an American corporation that would compete with the luxury group LVMH and Kering; Or the decision of some of the prominent designers not to participate. Read more in Calcalist: "For my clients it is enough that they know what they are wearing" Oscar Fashion 2020: Breaking a fashion change code: Prada employees will be required to attend a workshop on racial sensitivity Ralph Lauren and veteran Tommy Hilfiger were absent from him, many others, including Tom Brown and Joseph Altozara, chose Show in Paris and Jeremy Scott decided to cancel his show just two weeks before its existence.From the 2020 Winter Show From the 2020 Winter Show Photos: Itzfi, AFP, DPA / ABACA, Getty Images Designer Tom Ford, who currently heads the Fashion Designers Council Of America in place of Diane von Furstenberg, chose to present his collection for the winter of 2020 in Los Angeles, on the eve of the Oscars.Vogue has already wondered whether New York Fashion Week should not be canceled at all and how much it reflects the local fashion industry Struggling for its place in the global luxury market.For Ford has a place of honor in this market.The front row of his show was laden with twinkling stars, most of them close friends of Ford, who is also an acclaimed director whose two films won accolades and were Oscar nominees, Carena Van Ham, Jeff Bezos and Jennifer Lopez, who seem to have the sexy evening gowns from Transparent Black Lace were aimed at a Lia. Tom Ford Tom Ford Photo: AFP The models took to the runway in asymmetrical midi skirts in spectacular embroidery or made of patchwork jeans, worn with gray and black sweaters in a square oversize cut, their sleeves cut at the shoulders (also combined with long fringed skirts). Knee-high boots and giant feather earrings; Comfortable wide-leg pants in a training cut and a wide cape in a tai-dai print; And midi skirt suits that were combined this time with jackets with padded shoulders in sharp colors: purple combined with earrings in mustard-yellow or bottle green. The men in wide satin pants, which looked just the right size, and colorful embroidered jackets and armed with big glasses with black frames and colored glass . In short, Glam is relaxed at his best. It was an impressive show of strength by Ford, one of the greatest American motorcyclists today, and a shrewd businessman. He is the man who revolutionized Gucci, which was on the verge of bankruptcy, during his days as creative director since 1994. This turned the conservative Italian brand into a glamorous brand worth more than $ 10 billion in a decade (we can not forget the Gucci campaign from the summer of 2003, in which a model revealed shaved pubic hair in the shape of the logo - the letter G). In 2006 he established a brand bearing his name, first in cosmetics and menswear and only later created the line of women's clothing. According to forecasts, its cosmetics brand, which started with a single perfume and is now part of the Estee Lauder Group and includes a rich product line, will cross the $ 1 billion mark in 2020. Since 2015, the brand has increased its sales every year by $ 200 million. Take for example the launch of his “Fucking Fabrics” perfume at New York Fashion Week 2018: it was supposed to be a limited edition gimmick, went viral and sales forecasts of $ 400,000 became $ 25 million. "We are on a soaring trajectory to double the business in a short time," John Damsey, president of the Estee Lauder Group, told WWD. According to Ford, in an interview with the New York Times, he previously described himself as a "perfectionist, ostensibly anal. Such a stressful sex, condescending ”- about American fashion,“ abandoning the idea that it is American and becoming more relevant in the world, internationally, if it wants to flourish ”. Handsome requires handsome fulfills. "New York Fashion Week has long needed a refresher," Ford told Business of Fashion, and the Los Angeles show teaches fresh thinking. "America is not just New York," he said. Its abolition may be too radical a move but as chairman of the board of designers, Ford has already made some changes: if in the past it was loaded with displays of different qualities, Ford curated a more accurate event and tried to make it global.

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