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August 29, 2020 6 min read

Fascist Feminist: On the designer Maria Gracia Curry The cape that Natalie Portman wore at the Oscars and caused a stir was designed by Curry, the first woman in the role of chief designer at a housing home. She proved that uncompromising feminism, understanding of what women want, a combination of high and low and control of social networks are also very good for business Oscar 2020 Natalie PortmanOpenDiorphineism Last week's Oscar ceremony included as expected a lot of Hollywood glam but glamorous evening dresses There were also less routine choices, and one dress that could not be ignored either because of her feminist activist statement. Actress Natalie Portman climbed the red carpet wearing a black dress adorned with gold embroidery and a cape on her lapel was embroidered with the names of the directors whose films were not included among the Oscar nominees. This cape attracted a lot of attention, admiring and even angry reactions (actress Rose McGowan, for example, accused Portman of being a “cheater” and of not starring in directors' films and not employing directors in her production company) and even won a satirical version in Great Country. Natalie Portman in a cape with the names of the directors who were not nominated for the Oscars. In the line of modernist feminism Natalie Portman in a cape embroidered with the names of the directors who were not nominated for the Oscars. In the news of modernist feminism Photo: AFP The dress and cape in question were designed by Maria Gracia Curry for the Dior fashion house, and not by chance. She is part of the gospel of feminist modernism that has been coming out of the French fashion house since Curry entered it about four years ago, as the first woman in the role of chief designer. This mood is also reflected in the brand's couture show, which took place in Paris a few weeks earlier, with Curry a friend of American feminist artist Judy Chicago whose art installation "Dinner Party," exhibited in 1979 and now on display at the Brooklyn Museum, is dedicated to 39 figures of women from Western history who were "invited" to dinner. The installation consisted of three tables arranged in a triangle shape, and on each table were placed 13 sets of cutlery, each of which included a napkin on which the figure's name was embroidered and a porcelain plate decorated with images of female organs, cutlery and a glass of wine. Now Curry and Chicago have created a birth canal in the shape of a birth canal on which the models walk like modern goddesses in flat sandals in the Greco-Roman style. Maria Gracia Curry Maria Gracia Curry Photo: AFP Curie, who was born and raised in Rome and even lives in the city with her family today, has created a new look for a housing home. Three and a half years after entering the French fashion house she rebranded it, making it more relevant and younger, much more commercial - the engine of feminist modernism. She presented her approach from the beginning: "It is impossible to change a company without presenting your point of view as strong," she said in an interview with the Telegraph. Her upheaval began with the first collection presented in September 2016, in a T-shirt (at £ 600) with the caption “We all need to be feminists” worn with hand-embroidered tulle skirts identified with her and flat sneakers. The caption is taken from a 2014 article published by Nigerian feminist writer Chimmandana Ngozi Adicia, and this slogan was the campaign of the season. Copies of the shirt popped up all over the world and Curry was happy. "Some of them did not know they were buying a copy, but they connected to the message and that is what is important," she told the Telegraph. At the Spring 2018 show, a model once again marched, this time against the backdrop of the monumental sculptures of Nicki de San Pal - one of the most influential artists of the 20th century that combined creativity and femininity in feminist and surrealistic performances - with a striped shirt with the caption "Why Weren't Women Great Artists?" This was the client's sentence from the title of a 1971 article by art historian Linda Nochlin, which was even distributed to exhibitors. Dior's fashion show titled "What Would Happen If Women Ruled the World." Curry: "It is impossible to change a society without presenting your point of view as strong" Dior's fashion show entitled "What would have happened if women had ruled the world". Curry: "It is impossible to change a company without presenting your point of view as strong" Photo: Getty Images It is not surprising, by the way, that among her predecessors in a role in housing history, Curry felt connected to designer Mark Bohan who served as creative director of housing from 1960-1989. And was known for its wearable and elegant designs, which kept a young spirit, not a matter of course when it comes to couture. "He really made clothes that worked for women, elegant and comfortable clothes, easy to wear," she admitted in an interview with the Financial Times. Curry has often been accused of being too populist, too commercial, too wearable. "Housing is not a T-shirt company," whispered front-rowers at the shows, according to the Financial Times, and New York Times fashion critic Kathy Horn wondered if she was the right choice for housing. T-shirts with feminist captions designed by Curry for housing sold for £ 600 T-shirts with feminist captions designed by Curry for housing sold for £ 600 Photo: Getty Images Fashion critics may be looking for an innovative design, but the audience actually liked the T-shirts and direct designs , Easy to wear, the modern twist of items from the housing archive and the marketing methods on social networks, which have been successful. For example, when Curry retrieved from the archives in 2018 the iconic housing saddle bag created by John Galliano in 1999, she launched it in an Instagram blitz of more than 100 influencers online. The campaign was a great success, also reflected in $ 3.4 million in advertising savings in the third quarter of 2018. Just four years ago, Curio was the creative director of the Valentino House, along with Pierre Paolo Piccoli. The two are longtime partners who have worked together for 20 years and made Valentino the big hit of the global fashion world, which was also well reflected in sales. They started together in the accessories department at Fendi, then at Valentino's - and for eight years shared the role of Valentino's creative directors and were responsible for redefining the Italian luxury brand. During this period, there was a significant increase in sales of the fashion house, which was acquired in 2012 by the Qatari royal family's investment fund, reaching 1.11 billion euros in 2016. By 2018, sales had grown to 1.2 billion. A bag inspired by the artist Nicki de Saint-Pal A bag inspired by the artist Nicki de Saint-Pal Photo: dior Curry replaced Raf Simmons with housing, whose sales have increased considerably in his three-and-a-half years in office. For the first time in his 70s, after nine months of speculation, Beit Dior appointed a woman as its creative director, and expectations were high. Sydney Toledano, chairman and president of Housing, said in interviews at the time that Curry's appointment was part of a female revolution in the world in general and the fashion industry in particular. In an interview with Business of Fashion, he said that Curry has a different point of view from a male designer. I was looking for a designer with a deep understanding of women's needs. " Searched and found. Maria Gracia Curry made her feminist voice during Metoo's era and managed to capture the spirit of the time in her collections and march Dior House forward, also in terms of improving sales: Thus, Dior Couture's sales (including the smaller men's line designed by Kim Jones) in 2019 reached 3.2 billion euros, an increase of 26% compared to the previous year. For comparison, in 2016, when Cory joined Housing, sales as a whole amounted to barely 1.9 billion euros. By 2019, they already stood at 6.3 billion euros and according to analysts, by 2025 sales will increase to more than 9 billion euros, and the company's value may then reach 40 billion euros.

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